Sewing-machine and folding attachment therefor.



APPLICATION FILED NOV. 20, I912.

Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

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G. W- EBERLEY.

SEWING MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENT THEREFOR.

APPLlCATiON FILED Nov. 20, 1912.

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I I '1 P w G. W. EBERLEY. SEWING MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENTTHEREFOR.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 20, 1.912.

1,29%,258. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

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GEORGE W. EBERLEY, OF VJHITESBOBQ, NEW YGRK,

ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINO IS, ACOREORATION (3F ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENT THEREFOR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. "4, 1916.

Application filed November 20, 1912. Serial No. 732,508.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE W. Ennnnnr, a c1t1zen of the United States,residing at lVhitesborO, in the County of Oneida State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines andFolding Attachments Therefor, of which the following is a description,ref erence being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures ofreference marked thereon.

The invention. relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machinesand folding attachments therefor, and more particularly to attachmentsfor folding and guiding a strip of fabric to a stitching mechanism,wherein the strip is led to the stitching mechanism from a directionsubstantially at a right angle to the line of feed, and is inverted andfed to the stitching mechanism.

An object of the invention is to provide a directing device for a folderof the above character, which directing device may be adj ustedangularly relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder, for varyingthe position of the feed of the folded strip to the stitching mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to provide an adjustable directingdevice of the above character with means whereby the same may beadjusted without stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a folding andguiding device for folding and inverting a strip of fabric, which is soconstructed that the an le of the edges over which the strip is invertedmay be adjusted relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part behereinafter more fully described.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of theinvention, Figure l. is a partial end view of a sewing machine having myimproved folding and guiding device applied thereto, the bed plate beingbroken away to show more clearly the folding device; Fig. 2 is a planview, showing more or less diagrammatically the work support and needlesof a sewing machine with my improved folding and guiding device appliedthereto; Fig. 3 is a horizontal sectional view through the folding andguiding device, showing the guiding device in one position relative tothe stitching mechanism; Fig. 4.- is a view similar to Fig. 3, with thedirecting device in another position for feeding the folded strip to thestitching mechanism; Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective view of a folderembodying my improvements, also showing a section of fabric as led intothe folder, and as it leaves the folder; Fig. 6 is a rear perspectiveview of the folder; Fig. 7 is an end view of the directing device,showing the rear part of the folder; Fig. 8 is an end view of thefolding device, showing a face or side view of the directing member;Fig. 9 is a detail showing one means for adjusting the directing devicerelative to the folder; lh 10 shows a strip of fabric cut so as to form,when folded, shaped connected collarets, which may he guided, folded,inverted and directed to the stitching mechanism and attached to agarment; Fig. 11 is a perspective view showing the manner of folding andi vert-ing a strip such as shown in Fig. 10; and Fig. shows a inishedgarment having a shaped collaret attached thereto by my improved foldingand guiding device.

The invention consists generally in a folder of the well known Englishbinder type; that is, a folder which is capable of guidin folding andinverting a strip of fabric as it passes to the stitch-formingmechanism. Cooperating with this folding device is a directing devicewhich engages the strip after it is folded, and directs the same to thestitch-forming mechanism. This directing device is attached to the mainfolder so as to swing about the end of the inner folding member, whereit engages and folds a strip, as a pivotal center, so that the part ofthe guiding device which engages the fold in the strip for alladjustment thereof, is substantially continuous with the part in themain folding device which ongages the fold in the strip. This guiding ordirecting device for the folded strip is, therefore, angularlyadjustable relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder, and byadjusting said device relative to the stitching mechanism, the feedingof the strip to the stitching mechanism may be varied.

In the present embodiment of the invention, this directing device isnormally held by a spring, so as to guide the fabric in a direction atright angles to the longitudinal l axis of the main folding device. Saiddirecting device is capable, however, of being adjusted manuallyand'during the op eration of the stitching mechanism, so as to shift thefeed of the strip relative to the stitching mechanism. Means is alsoprovided for holding the strip in folded condition as it passes throughthe directing de- VlCe.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved folding andguiding device consists of the main folding member 1, which may beformed of a plate bent so as to form an inner guiding wall 2, and anouter guiding wall 3. As shown in the drawings, the outer guiding wall 3is formed with a slot 4, and bridge pieces 5 and 6 are attached to thesections of this outer guiding member and hold the same in proper spacedrelation to one another. This slot is for the purpose of guiding thestrip through the folder in starting the same through the folder.

vAt the delivery end, the two walls 2 and 3 are bent so as to form a'U-shaped passage 7. These walls also at the delivery end are cut orshaped on an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axis of thefolder, so that the strip passing through the folder may be invertedover the ends of the inner wall and led therefrom in a directionsubstantially at right angles thereto. This is the common form ofEnglish binder for guiding and inverting a strip of fabric. This folderis provided with a shank 8, having suitable openings 9 therein, throughwhich said folder may be secured to the work support of the machine. 7

I have shown my improved folder and guiding device as attached to asewing machine having a work plate 10. Said work plate. is formed with aslot, as is customary in this type of machine, so that when the shank ofthe folder 8 is secured to the depending apron or flange 12 of the workplate 10, the plane of the work plate cuts the folder substantiallycentrally between the delivery ends of the folder. The body fabric towhich. the folded strip is stitched may, therefore, rest on theworkplate and be fed through the U-shaped end of the folder, in themanner well understood in this art.

The stitch-forming mechanism for stitching a folded strip to a bodyfabric, as shown in the drawings, includes two spaced needles 13 and 14,which-are carried by a needle bar 15 reciprocating in the needle head 16of the sewing machine.

The sewing machine is also provided with the usual presser foot 16,which holds the work upon the work support, and 00613- erates with thefeed. As shown in Fig. 2. I have indicated a sewing machine having anupper feed 17, which engages the upper blank, as shown in said figure,extends from V the line 00-00- to the line y-y.' These tapered ends whenthe collaret is applied ,to the.

garment, are the-finishing ends for the col-' laret, as indicated inFig. 12. By this shaping of the collaret, the side edges thereof in thefinished. garment have the appearance of vanishing or intersecting, thusgiving a neat and shapely appearance to the garment.

The folder above described will'operate to fold and guide a strip orstrips of even width, so that said stripswill be properly engaged by thestitching mechanisnn If, however, the strip varies in width, the stripled from such a folder would be carried outside or improperly directedto the stitching mechanism.

As a means for taking care of strips varying in width, I have providedthe folder above described with a guiding or directing device 18.Thisguiding device, as clearly shown in the drawings, is formed with acentral U-shaped guiding passage 19, and said guiding device is pivotedto the main folding device, so as .to swing about a pivot point locatedat the end of the inner folding member of the main folding device, wheresaid inner folding member engages the fold in the strip being folded.The guiding device 18 is swung about this pivotal point 20, as a center.Said guiding device is formed, as shown in the drawings, with a bracket21 to which is attached-a spring 22. This spring at its other end isconnected to an eye 23 on the main folder.

A bar 24 extends through suitable lugs 25 carried by the main folder,and this spring 22 normally swings the guiding or directing device 18,so that the rear face thereof rests against said bar.

As a means forrmoving the guiding device about its pivotal point andaway from the limiting bar 24, I have provided a lever 26, which is, asherein shown, pivoted to the ends of the bar 24, and is bale-shaped.Said lever 26 extends underneath the bracket 21, and bears against therear face of the guiding or directing device 18. The outer end of thelever 26 is connected to a rod or chain 27, which in turn is connectedon the rock lever' 28, the lever 26 will be moved about its pivotalpoint, so as to swing the guiding or directing device 18 away from thelimiting bar.

The edges 30 of the guiding or directing device 18 at the receiving endthereof, are cut at an angle of 45 to the longitudinal axis of saidguiding or directing device, so that when said guiding device is atright angles to the longitudinal axis of the main folder, said edges 80are in line with the edges of the inner folding member of the mainfolder. The fabric strip passing through the main folder will, herefore,be inverted over the inclined edges 30 of the guiding or directingdevice 18. As this guiding or directing device is adjusted, thereceiving edges 30 thereof will be moved away from the edges of theinner folding member of the main folding device, as shown for example inFig. 4. It will, therefore, be apparent that the shifting of thisdirecting or guiding device will vary the angle of the edges thereofover which the fabric strip is inverted, relative to" the longitudinalaxis of the main folding member. These inverting edges of the guiding ordirecting device, however, remain in fixed relation to the longitudinalaxis of said guiding or directing device. Therefore, the strip as it isled through said guiding device, even though it is fed in a direction atan obtuse angle to the longitudinal axis of the main folder, will alwaysmove in a fixed direction relative to the inverting edges, and no unevenstrain is placed on said fabric strip. In other words, if the edges ofthe main folding member were the inverting edges when the parts arearranged as shown in Fig. 4, it will be apparent that a greater strainwill. be placed on the strip at the fold in the strip than at the freeedges thereof, which would cause the strip to be improperly stretched,but with my improvement, wherein the inverting edges are also shiftedwith the directing member, an even strain is maintained on the stripregardless of the direction in which the strip is led from the folder.

As a means for maintaining the folded strip in the guiding or directingdevice 18, I have provided a guiding wire 81. This guiding wire ispreferably U-shaped, and is so proportioned that when attached to thedelivery end of the guiding or directing device, it will form a U-shapedguiding space 32, through which the folded collaret strip may be led.This wire engages the inner face of the inverted strip, and holds thesame well within the guiding or directing device.

In Fig. 12 of the drawing, 1 have shown the collaret as stitched to thegarment by cross stitching, indicated at S. It will be understoodhowever, that other forms of stitching mechanism may be used inconnection with my improved folding and guiding device. This crossstitching is formed by cross stitch thread guides 33 and 36, which arepivoted to the head of the machine and properly swing back and forth, soas to lay the thread thereof first underneath one of the stitchingneedles and then the other, in the well known manner. The presser foot15 is formed with a stitched tongue 3%, over which the cross stitchingmay be laid.

In the operation of my device, the strip to be folded is passed throughthe main folder and is inverted and led therefrom to the stitchingmechanism. The guiding or directing device 18 is positioned so as tomaintain the direction of feed of the strip after it leaves the folder.The free end 35 of this guiding or directing device is preferablydisposed at a point adjacent a line passing through the stitchingneedles, although said point is necessarily located a sufficientdistance in front thereof so that it may be swung at an angle to themain folder, without interfering with the presser foot, as shown in Fig.4.

When strips of different widths are to be fed to the stitchingmechanism, the guiding and directing device 18 will be swung at an angleto the main folder, so as to direct the free edges of the strip betweenthe needles; that is, if said strip is to be stitched to the garment andhave the free edges thereof covered by cross stitching. If a narrowerstrip is to be stitched to the garment, the same may be passed throughthe folder and the guiding or directing device shifted relative to themain folder, so as to bring the free edges thereof between the needles,and this may be accomplished without shifting the main folder toward orfrom the line of feed.

Vhen stitching a collaret to a garment, or a strip which varies inwidth, throughout its length, the guiding or directing device issimilarly shifted toward and from the stitching mechanism, so as toalways direct the free edge of the strip between the needles. Theguiding device may be shifted during the stitching operation. Therefore,the operator by watching the strip as it )asses from the 'uidin ordirectin device b (D b 3 may by the aid of the treadle or knee shift,throw the guiding or directing device one way or the other, so as tomaintain the line of feed of the free edges between the needles. Inother words, this guiding or directing device is manually controlled,and may be shifted for varying the feed of the strip to the stitchingmechanism, without in any way adjusting the capacity of the main foldingmember, or its position longitudinally relative to the line of feed.

While I have shown manually-controlled means for adjusting the guidingordirecting member, it will be obvious that other ways of adjusting saidmember may be used, without departing from the spirit of the invention,as set forth in the appended claims.

WVhile I have shown my main folding device as constructed and arrangedfor folding and inverting a strip of fabric, it will be obvious thatfrom certain aspects of the invention, my auxiliary folding member,which is moved by the operator relative to the line of feed, may be usedin connection with other types of folder or guiding devices for thestrip, which passes through the auxiliary folding and guiding device.

It will be noted that the auxiliary folding and guiding device isprovided with means for holding the free edges of the strip separatedand that the main folding device is also cut away at its delivery end,and, therefore, the body .fabric to which the strip is to be attachedmay pass freely though the space at the delivery end of the main folder,and also freely through the auxiliary folding and guiding device. Thisfree passage of the fabric prevents any undue friction thereon, and,therefore, allows a knitted garment to be freely fed to the stitchingmechanism by the feed of the sewing machine.

While I have also shown my improved folding and guiding device asoperating to direct a fabric strip to a cross-stitching mechanism, it isobvious that said guiding device may be used in connection with any formof stitching mechanism.

I have shown the collaret blanks in Fig. 10 as connected together in onecontinuous series, so that the blank being stitched will operate to drawthe next succeeding blank through the folder. These collarets 'may, ifdesired, be stitched to the body garments, and afterward cut apart andfinished, as shown in Fig. 12 of the drawing.

It is also obvious that minor changes in the details of construction andarrangement of parts may be made, without departing from the spirit ofthe invention, as set forth in the appended claims. 7

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by 7 Letters Patent, is

1. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch forming mechanism and means'whereby the angle of said guidingdevice relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder may be adjustedfor varying the position of the strip fed to the stitch formingmechanism.

2. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch forming mechanism, and mama.

ally controlled means for adjusting the angle of said guiding devicerelative to the longitudinal axis ofthe folder for varying the positionof the strip fed to the stitch forming mechanism. r

3. The combination with a main folding device for folding and invertinga strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device being pivoted to said mainfolding device, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding devicerelative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

4. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device being normally positionedwith its longitudinal axis at right angles to. the longitudinal axis ofthe folder, and means for adjusting said guiding device about'itsreceiving end as an axis, whereby the. angle of said guiding device maybe adjusted relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

5. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device having the receiving endthereof cut at an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axisof the guiding device, said edges of the receiving end being positionedso that the strip is inverted over the same, and means for varying theangle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of saidfolder.

6. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting astrip, of a guid-' ing device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device having the receiving endthereof cut at an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axisof the guiding device, said edges of the receiving end being positionedso that the strip is inverted over the same, means for varying the angleof said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of" saidfolder, said angle varying means ineluding devices which may be manuallycontrolled, whereby .said guiding device may be shifted without stoppingthe stitching mechanism.

7. The combination with a main folding guiding device, and a spring andcooperating stops for normally holding said guiding device with thelongitudinal axis thereof at right angles to the longitudinal axis ofthe main folder.

8. The combination with a main folding device for folding and invertinga strip, of a U-shaped guiding device located at the delivering end ofsaid main folding device, and means for adjusting the angle of saidguiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said main foldingdevice.

9. The combination with a main folding device for folding and invertinga strip, of a Ushaped guiding device located at the delivering end ofsaid main folding device, means for pivotally attaching said guidingdevice to the main folding device, whereby said guiding device swingsabout the end of the folding device as a pivotal center, and means foradjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinalaxis of said main folding device.

10. The combination with a main folding device for folding and invertinga strip, of a U-shaped guiding device located at the deliver-ing end. ofsaid main folding device, means for pivotally attaching said guidingdevice to the main folding device, whereby said guiding device swingsabout the end of the folding device as a pivotal center, and means foradjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinalaxis of said main folding device, said last named means includingmanually controlled devices for shifting the guiding device withoutstopping the stitching mechanism.

11. The combination with a main folding device for folding and invertinga strip, of

a U-shaped guiding device located at the delivering end of said mainfolding device, means for pivotally attaching said guiding device to themain folding device, whereby said guiding device swings about the end ofthe folding device as a pivotal center, and means for adjusting theangle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of saidmain folding device, said last named means including a spring for movingsaid guiding device in one direction, a stop for limiting the movementthereof, and manually controlled means for moving said guiding device inthe other direction.

12. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, means whereby the angle of said guiding devicerelative to the longitudinal axis of the folder may be adjusted, andmeans movable with the guiding device for maintaining the strip in thesame.

18. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device including a movable U-shaped section and means movable with said U-shaped section formaintaining the folded strip in contact with the wall thereof.

14. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting astrip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to thestitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device including a U-shapedmemher, and a U-shaped guiding wire attached to the delivering end ofsaid guiding device and spaced from the wall thereof, whereby said stripis properly guided through said guiding device.

15. The combination with a stitching mechanism, of means for folding astrip and inverting the same, and means located between the folding andinverting means and the stitching mechanism for guiding the strip to thestitching mechanism, said guiding means for the strip being capable ofadjustment to different angular positions relative to the folder andwithout stopping the stitching mechanism, whereby a strip of varyingwidth may be properly directed to the stitching mechanism.

16. The combination with a stitching mechanism, of a device for foldingand inverting a strip and directing the same to said stitchingmechanism, said folding and directing device having inclined edges overwhich the strip is inverted, and means for adjusting the inclination ofsaid edges relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder,

for varying the direction of the delivery of the strip to thestitch-forming mechanism.

17. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting astrip, of a supplemental guiding device for directing the inverted stripto the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of theoperator for adjusting the guiding device back and forth independentlyof the folding devices and with respect to the line of feed while themachine is in operation, whereby the edge of a strip varying in widthmay be maintained in operative posi tion at all times with respect tothe stitchforming mechanism.

18. The combination with a folder having an inner and outer guiding wallthe delivery ends thereof being formed on an acute angle to thelongitudinal axis of the folder whereby the strip be folded and theninverted, a device for directing the strip from the folder to the stitchforming mechanism and means for adjusting said directing device relativeto the folder and in a direction relative to the folder and relative tothe line of feed whereby a strip of varying width may be guided andmaintained in operative position with respect to the stitch formingmechanism and while the machine is in operation.

19. The combination of a stitch-forming mechanism having a needle and adevice for folding a strip of material having varying width anddirecting its free edges to said needle, including a folding device,having a folding and guiding channel, a second device having a guidingchannel for said'strip,

of the same capacity as said first named channel, and means formaintaining the free edges of the strip in the path of the needle.

20. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a mainfolding device for folding a strip of material on itself, a secondfolding device for receiving the strip after it is folded by said firstnamed main folding device, said second folding device having a portionfor engaging and guiding the strip at the fold therein, and a portionfor engaging and directing the free edges of said folded strip and meansfor adjusting said second folding device angularly relative to the firstfolding device for directing strips of varying width.

21. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a mainfolding device, a supplemental folding device normally disposedsubstantially at right angles to the main folding device, manual meansfor moving said supplemental folding device for varying the path oftravel of the folded strip to the stitching mechanism, and automaticmeans for returning said supplemental folding device to its normalposition.

22. A device for folding and guiding a strip offabric, including a mainfolding device having its delivery end cut at an angle to thelongitudinal axis of said folding device, a supplemental folding device,having its longitudinal axis arranged at an angle to the longitudinalaxis of the main folding device, and its delivery end cut at an angle tothe longitudinal axis of said supplemental folding device and means forvarying the angular position of the supplemental folding device relativeto the main folding device.

23. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a mainfolding device, having a folding and guiding channel, said foldingdevice having its delivery end formed with a space for the passage ofthe fabric to which the strip is to be attached, a supplemental foldingdevice for guiding said strip from said main folding device to thestitching mechanism and means for varying the angular position of thesupplement-al folding device relative to the main folding device, saidsupplemental folding device having means for providing a free passagefor the fabric to which the strip is to be attached.

24. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including mainfolding members for foldinga strip between its edges, and auxiliaryfolding members cooperating with said main folding members for.

inverting and folding the strip and guiding the same to thestitch-forming mechanism, said auxiliary folding members being locatedbetween'the main folding members at the delivery end thereof and meansfor adjusting the position of the auxiliary folding members relative tothe main folding member. v

25. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a mainfolding de-' 26. A folding device. for folding and guiding a shapedfabric strip of varying width, including relatively narrowed portions,comprising a main folding member for folding the wide portions of thestrip and inverting said strip, and an adjustable supplemental folder atthe delivery end of the main folding member for receiving the strip asit passes from the main folding member, and having its folding wallsmore closely spaced than the walls of the main folder, to insure thefolding of the narrowed portions of the strip.

27. A folding device for folding and guiding ashap'ed fabric strip ofvarying width, including relatively narrowed portions, comprising a mainfolding member for folding the wide portions of the strip and invertingsaid strip, a supplemental folder at the delivery end of the main fold-I ing member for receiving the strip as it passes from the main foldingmember, and having its folding walls more closely spaced than the wallsof the main folder, to insure the folding of the narrowed portions ofthe strip, and means for moving the supplemental folding member to varythe angle of said supplemental member relative to the longitudinal axisof the main folding member, whereby the strip may be kept in properoperative relation to the stitch forming mechanism. I

In testimony whereof, I affix my signature, in the presence of twowitnesses.

GEORGE W. EBERLEY.

Witnesses:

JOSEPH BERGER, Jr., CHAS. B. MASON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. (3.

